This post is about lipstick. Sorry, I know it’s a sore topic.
The third wave allows itself, in a kind of caricature of the third wave’s ideology, to “like men, wear lipstick and high heels, shave their legs and go to strip clubs.” As opposed to an older feminism, which was deconstructing men’s control over women, the demands made on women’s appearance and the discomfort inherent in feminine accouterments.
The reasoning goes, if we *want* to do it, it’s not oppressive. And now, in the “post-feminist” world, nobody’s forcing us to do this or punishing us if we don’t. We *enjoy* doing it, goddammit. So why not?
Why not, indeed.
But the truth is, there isn’t an awful lot of choice, still. The choices are easier only because they are not enforced ALL the time, and they aren’t as bad as they used to be. We don’t have foot-binding. We don’t have corsets. We don’t have long dresses with petticoats and ONLY long dresses with petticoats. We are allowed to sweat and work out and wear sneakers and jeans sometimes. Etc.
But! The gender-conformist choices we women make are still not made with only comfort and convenience in mind. Except that they are – of a certain sort.
Let me explain.
I made some difficult choices back home in Saudi Arabia and Pakistan. I rebelled against the heavy cloak (abaya) and the headscarf that was forced on all women from the age of 10 up, in 110 degree weather. I refused to cover my very long hair, which was believed to not only cause men to lose all control but also to invite jinn (demons) who would possess you for your hair (long hair, I was told, was said to be the only thing that attracted jinn to human women; that, and menstrual blood, I believe; so a menstruating long haired woman in the prime of life was a veritable jinn-magnet, especially when walking under trees, and especially at night).
In Pakistan, I started wearing trousers with short shirts and no dupatta (long, unwieldy scarf-like thing you drape across your chest to hide your tits) because it was more convenient and comfortable. Sometimes, during the summer, I would go out in almost see-thru lawn shirts with no bra on. If I got harassed, I would swing out with my heavy handbag, yell and scream and run the harassers off.
I was seen as very weird by almost everyone who knew me, some of them being rich young women from ultra-liberal families. They conformed because it was too weird not to. Since my social training was virtually non-existent growing up, I never really learned to conform. I did what made sense and was most happy-making. I ended up having to explain myself an awful lot, and was unceremoniously kicked out within less than six months, from the first situation where I had to survive amid social norms and expectations. In other words, I failed and was punished horribly.
I found myself unable to understand how anyone could sacrifice comfort and convenience to someone’s stupid ideas of how women should look and behave. While visiting dad’s friends in Syria, I stayed with a Syrian family. All the women of the family observed hijab (covered everything but their hands and faces). They had a particularly secure way of tying their heads up, with two layers of wrapped cloth, that never budged, was cinched at the neck (they went around their necks with the ends of the cloth) and looked quite uncomfortable. There I was, in their home, 15 years old and wearing jeans and t-shirts, much to the discomfort and embarrassment of my parents. This was in the middle of summer. When my dad hinted that I tie up my head, I refused point blank. I got one of the daughters to show me how she tied up her head and when she undid her scarf to re-do it, I saw her hair, matted to her head, sweaty and dirty and stringy, and red marks on her neck. Her ears and neck were a different color from her face. I asked her if she wasn’t uncomfortable, and why she did it. And she said she wasn’t uncomfortable at all, it was completely comfortable, and she wanted to do it because she loved Allah.
There, the rules of the patriarchy are less symbolic, more absolute. Here, they are more symbolic, but honestly, who is my co-worker kidding when she says her 4-5 inch high heels are “comfortable”? Yet, she would agree with me about that tightly bound headscarf, while completely deluding herself about her heels (I’ve seen her wobble at every step).
When people like Twisty point out that we’re merely conforming to the patriarchy when we think we are doing what we want because it’s what WE want, they’re right. It’s not necessarily a judgment, but I do judge myself a little bit.
Here’s the thing.
I’m no longer that kid doing what makes sense and what is comfortable and happy-making. I do what is “best.” I end up enjoying it because the rewards are bigger than if I don’t do it. There’s a difference – I’m not avoiding punishment, I’m seeking reward.
I was truly free from the patriarchy in Pakistan and Saudi Arabia because I never had one tiny spark of desire for Middle Eastern / South Asian men. I was free of them. I despised them. I couldn’t have cared less if they thought I looked like a scarecrow. Any attention I got from them was unwelcome. I didn’t want to work for them, rely on them, marry them, befriend them or fuck them.
Here, not so much. I do all of the above; I want to do some of it. I need to do the rest.
Growing up with an older brother who was my best friend, I was a tomboy until my late teens. I didn’t discover the rituals and practices of femininity until 23. Yes, that late. The big crossing was getting contact lenses and shedding my glasses. Then came shaving my legs. Then came skirts (just last year).
I have never worn much makeup. Just a dab of powder to take the shine off my nose and a bit of brownish-red lipstick. Nothing for my eyes or skin. In fact, I don’t know how to put on make-up and make a giant mess if I try to put on eyeliner. I got my first real hair-styling done two months ago (I had only ever straight-trimmed my long straight hair before that).
Although I can “pass” now, I still feel graceless and unfeminine and unpolished when in the company of regular conforming white girls (of the type I work with). I am not and never will be one of those women who always look the same, always perfect, no creases in their clothes, not a hair out of place, no lipstick rubbed off after lunch. Me? I’m rumpled. My lipstick doesn’t stay on. I can’t wear heels all day. My hair gets windblown. My armpit hair grows out.
I fail the multifarious tests of femininity every day.
But I still do reasonably well, simply because with my raw material – young, slim and pretty – you can’t go too far wrong.
Of course I still feel the strain of femininity. I’ve been going shorter and shorter with my hair (it’s still very long because it was so long to start with) and now I admit the only reason I don’t chop it all off is femininity – vanity. I have gotten more used to 2-3 inch heels (used not to be able to walk in them at all). I wear them only for work. My legs are more often shaved than not, and no, this is not always fun or comfortable. In my non-skirt wearing days, I would envy the girls in loose flowing skirts and dresses in the summer. So there is the joy of comfort and the breeze and the freedom of movement. But it would be so much nicer if I could do it without making my legs conform to an arbitrary standard (of course I could still leave my legs hairy and wear a skirt. But I wouldn’t be comfortable doing that at all).
I didn’t care about the opinions of people back home, so I wasn’t uncomfortable flouting their conventions. I do care about the people in America, because they appear more sane to me and I AM uncomfortable flouting American conventions. That doesn’t mean there is a difference, in principle, in what’s going on in my choices.
My husband has always admired and loved the utterly natural unadorned first-thing-in-the-morning me. I don’t NEED to be decorative for work. I work for two feminists pushing fifty. Neither of them care how I look or would dream of holding it against me. I don’t care for the approval of the men on the street. I asked myself, “What’s holding me to femininity?”
So I decided to give up my only visible make-up (lipstick), pull back my hair in a bun, and not go out of my way or wear anything uncomfortable in order to look good.
I stopped after a week.
That little bit of lipstick and the flowing long hair. They’re crucial to earning me respect, apparently.
People stopped opening doors, standing aside and looking awe-struck. Some women stopped being nice. Some people assumed I was a sales clerk, homeless, boring, didn’t speak English, or was just plain stupid. People just weren’t as nice to me. Chivalry — never welcome anyway — was nonexistent.
People – especially men, but women too – listened less closely when I spoke. It took even longer to convince new acquaintances I had a brain. I didn’t notice any lingering glances from passersby. Nobody perked up and paid attention when I walked into a room. I didn’t “make anyone’s day” by smiling. (Yes, this happens – people, mostly men, mostly older men, mostly older men of a certain sort, tell you that.)
I had become a non-person. I was invisible. I had been disappeared. I had no value.
I realized what older women and other non-conforming women might feel. And I realized what a lot of societal rewarding a pretty woman turned out for the pleasure of patriarchy receives. I only saw it when it went away. And I wanted it back.
If this seems strange, it’s because lipstick makes a huge difference to a monochromatic color scheme like mine – I’m brown (skin) and black (hair and eyes), pretty much. No blues and pinks and yellows, as in white women’s faces and hair. A bit of lipstick and good hair goes a long way for me.
So, choice = be ignored and undervalued or be admired and adored? Some choice.
I am not wearing heels and stockings and certain clothes and keeping my hair long and putting on lipstick because I like it. I do like it, but I only like it because I’m rewarded for it. I’m made to feel better about myself if I look a certain way. But this rewarding? It’s wrong. And if I were a better person, I’d stop. I’d give up the rewards and just be comfortable and myself, and save myself a hell of a lot of time. I would stop expecting myself to perform a decorative function (in addition to being interesting, kind and good) and actually taking pleasure in my decorativeness. I would be for me, not “for me” through the reflections of others’ enjoyment.
I admire women who choose to do without, and survive the resulting social disappearance of them. But I don’t want to be one of them. The rewards are too sweet. Look around you — how many women do you see who aren’t trying to make the best of their physical assets? I don’t see many. How many women – otherwise youngish and ordinary looking (i.e., not homeless) do you see with hairy legs bared? I’ve only ever seen two. And one of them is an eccentric (see, I’m calling them weird now). The second was at a lesbian event.
The fact that I don’t want to give up my rewards is human weakness and pusillanimity, not the new freedom of the “post-feminist” world.
The patriarchy still rules, most of the time, on most women’s bodies. We have made some progress and earned one right – when we don’t conform, we mostly escape serious punishment. Not always, but frequently. This is a good thing.
I’m not chastising myself for the fun of it, but because it occurred to me – quite recently, as I have begun to notice more and more my transformation from a serious nerdy person to a ‘girly girl’ – that essentially, there really isn’t a difference between what the Muslim chicks do to fit in and what I do to fit in. This is an important insight. To get approval, Muslim women are asked to be submissive and show it in symbols, such as the headscarf. Western women are asked to be decorative. Or risk being made irrelevant.
The fight of feminism was and is to rescue women from irrelevancy while striving to control the definition of being relevant. Being decorative – or submissive – is not being relevant on our terms, although we may succeed in gaining some measure of relevance in other areas feminism has made headway in, and it helps the overall effort to show, through femininity, that we’ll bend a little here and there. We aren’t breaking all the rules. We are still “under control.”
When women look like how they are “supposed to look” – all is right with the patriarchy.
True freedom will be ours when we’re not playing to a gallery, when we don’t expect to wow people we’re never going to speak with, when we can exist purely as ourselves and not feel conscious of that simple act. But yes, I know this is all so much speechifying on my part if I openly declare I’m not willing to part with my rewards for the sake of mere ideals.
Ah, patriarchy. It’s insidious.
I’m working on it. That’s the best I can say.
Filed under: Feminism








Really liked this post. Honest and open. Makes me reflect on the contradictions I live with in how I dress every day – I’ll wear hijab but wear that mascara and the lipstick and the high heels and the earrings, and do it to get attention. I’ll write about this one day – when its not the week before the bar. Anyway, just wanted to say, great post.
Wow, that’s a fascinating post.
It’s interesting, I’m a young white girl with small breasts who is slightly overweight and middle-of-the-road attractive. I wear men’s pants and tramping boots with my work top, with no makeup. I work in retail at a vet clinic. I live in New Zealand.
Now, I know that women who are more attractive than me get treated more nicely some of the time. I know from when I have worn skirts/makeup during the day what it’s like to be tooted at/have men be more solicitous. I didn’t like it very much.
I don’t really go to bars, certainly not to “pick up”, and once when I went out with more girly friends who do was extremely disgruntled at that feeling of invisibility in my averageness. I am very sexually confident because I must have some passion or something that works incredibly well in a small group (I actually had a very attractive man tell me that there were more attractive women at this particular party but I have… something) but not at all in the, um, meat market.
I’d like to be more genetically favoured but generally I like being attractive enough to get laid when I want to, but not so attractive as to be harassed incessantly. But if living in America (and possibly England) and dressing/living like I do now gets the results garnered in that bar? I think I would conform more too.
I also wish the people so quick to criticise Islam (not that I am at all comfortable with the sexism inherent in many Islamic countries) would think about what you just said
Nail, hammer, head. This is it perfectly. Thank you for writing this.
Firstly, nice blog..
Secondly, When u mentioned that this topic was about lipstick and the subject was a little sore I was like “Whaaa…”
Well, moving on, I gotta say that I agree with most of ur post, that women are expected to look a certain way in every culture, and if they don’t they are considered ignorant… but if i may point out, men are also expected to look a certain way.. I mean sure there aren’t as many things are a woman has to do, men are expected to be groomed too….
all i am saying is that it is a part of every culture, it may be a little heavy on the women’s side, but blaming it on men by calling it patriarchal would be wrong
Great post.
There are rules to being relevant and attaining respect. Patriarchy has a very short spectrum of what it will accept from women. There is that fine borderline between respect and disrespect.
Wearing that skirt will give you respect and make you relevant, but make sure it’s the correct length. If it’s too short then you fall out of the respect and relevance range. Make sure your heels are not too high, have no platform, and are not clear, you may be suspected of being a sex worker; you loose respect and become distracting. Your lipstick can’t be too red; we don’t want people thinking you’re a hooker. It’s easy to go from, whore, to respectable woman, to “homeless” looking. The spectrum of invisible to visible, to distracting is very short for women. Being at both extremes of the spectrum renders women irrelevant. The verbal cues go from one end of the range, to the other (slut, hooker, to pretty, sweet, to crazy, weirdo). No wonder why most women choose to be in the middle of the spectrum.
In Apostate’s report of strangers’ changed response to her when she went without makeup, etc., she said (capitalization added):
“… people assumed I was a SALES CLERK, HOMELESS, boring, didn’t speak English, or was just plain STUPID.”
and also:
“People … listened less closely when I spoke. It took even longer to convince new acquaintances I had a BRAIN.”
Apostate’s words that I capitalized makes me wonder if Americans’ response to the un-decorated Apostate was at least in part influenced by American perceptions of class status.
In the southeastern U.S., where I live, perceptions of social class, at least among Caucasians, will influence how people are treated in public. In certain public spaces of metro Atlanta, conventionally ‘middle-class’ attire on a customer can gain more solicitous attention from sales clerks and the like, and I would imagine that even on the West Coast, a carefully turned-out woman can give the impression of being in a ‘higher’ social class and thus get similarly respectful attention.
In the U.S., at least among Caucasians, markers of social class can influence how people’s intelligence and social value are perceived by strangers, and how strongly class markers influence perception would probably differ in different social/work settings.
So I wonder if Apostate’s public experience as an “un-decorated” woman was influenced not only by patriarchal conventions of beauty but also by Americans’ habit of rating intelligence, social worth, etc., according to American markers of social class.
Great post. But as I get closer to 40 I realize that the rewards for conforming are now fewer and fewer. It gets easier and I start to care less. My legs are still shaved though; maybe next year…
Oh look, it only took until the 4th comment for the WHAT ABOUT THE MENZ to start. And me without my bingo cards.
Anyway, “essentially, there really isn’t a difference between what the Muslim chicks do to fit in and what I do to fit in.” Yes, exactly. I have no idea what I would wear without the punishments and rewards of patriarchy. That experiment has never been tried.
I tend to wear ankle-length skirts most of the time, and I have quite a collection of them. In the last couple of years there have been quite a few women wearing hijab who have stopped me on the street to ask where I get them, which leads to a happy exchange of gossip on where to get skirts that are long, comfortable, durable, and not blindingly expensive. It’s only recently that I realized the conversations were about more than just the skirts — many of these women are feeling alone, shy, “othered” in our American culture. The long skirts give us something in common to talk about, an easy opening to a conversation, even if only for a moment with a passing stranger.
And I wonder how their lives go, here. Because of how I look, I’m in a constant struggle to be left alone. Does how they look leave them in a constant struggle for contact?
ah m’dear, irrelevant and maturity are ok, there’s LOTs of us. Besides, the shoes are more comfortable :)
That little bit of lipstick and the flowing long hair. They’re crucial to earning me respect, apparently.
I think a lot of this is the way these physical attributes make you feel about yourself, which you then project outward to others. AND ONLY THEN, come the different behaviors you describe.
For instance, I honestly never notice if women are wearing lipstick or not, unless it’s particularly colorful, or if they are ALL “made up”… I think your whole attitude changed and you were probably less assertive or outgoing than usual, etc. You may even have dressed differently, without realizing it.
When women claim they are getting certain clothes or boob jobs or whatever it is “for themselves”–I think this is what they are trying to say. It’s so they can project how these things make them feel, that is how they can most be the person they have fully chosen to be.
As an older woman, losing the ability to manipulate men was probably the most difficult thing (connected to appearance) for me to lose… and I didn’t even realize I was doing it, till I couldn’t do it. :P
On the up side, I have found a new freedom to look at young, attractive men and enjoy talking to them. Before, I consciously curbed my enthusiasm, since men were always taking my interest as a come-on and would be aggressive with me in return. Younger men don’t think that way about me now; they therefore do not bother me, and I am free to look at them and talk to them as long as I want without THEM aggravating me and assuming I want to fuck when I am just picking their brains or observing their attractive shirtless selves or whatever.
What I’ve learned: when men aren’t trying to screw you all the time, they can actually be regular people!!! :D
Amazing to me how all this just disappears when you become an “older woman”. Because your body disappears altogether, unless you wear the clothing and make-up of a young woman – then you REALLY come in for some criticism. I’ve not lost my sexual feelings but have an interesting response to being totally and absolutely ignored by men AND women in social settings: one part of me misses the attention; another part of me is thankful for the freedom to be myself. Although I often think I could fall down dead on the street and not even the street cleaner would notice. Feels to me as though this happened fairly quickly, in the space of three of four years.
Used to be, I would never have gone out with dirty hair, not anywhere, not even the corner store. Now I realize that not a soul will notice.
Glad you realize the patriarchy has downright followed you from back home to the New World. Re. the comment above on the question of class, yes it may be class as well, but it’s still also about gender.
I recommend Fatima Mernissi’s Scheherazade Goes West.
Yes, it absolutely is a class, and even more, a race thing. I have noticed that unless black and brown people are sending out definite signals in their attire and hair and other accessories, they are taken to be both poor and uneducated.
But white people can get away with torn jeans and flip flops – they are still assumed to be educated and well off – they are affected only if they are visibly dirty or very unkempt.
Umhum. I was just going to agree with James. It’s largely a race and class thing. I grew up in the US, and my parents are professionals. I’m also dark haired, dark eyed, olive skinned, and fat. If I don’t radiate “upper middle class” in the way I present myself, I’m often treated badly.
It’s not so much about the male gaze. Probably 75% of men don’t find me attractive because of my size, although I’m actually good looking – well proportioned, reasonably fit, and with a pleasant-looking face. I’ve essentially looked the same same since I was a teenager; for 25 years. I’ve never experienced what it’s like to be attractive in a mainstream, universally recognized way. But, I do have a choice in how strangers perceive me.
I can choose to look “homeless” (tank top, shorts, no makeup) and get treated badly.
I can choose to look dowdy (preppy or business-casual clothes, with or without makeup) and be treated as invisible on the street, but as a human being in interactions.
I can wear an expensive-looking outfit or suit, with makeup and my hair done, and be treated respectfully by almost everyone, and (interestingly) checked out by men on the street.
If I wear my leather coat and tight jeans, or a trendy-looking dress with a push-up bra, or otherwise try to look cool and sexy, I get mixed reactions: a combination of positive and negative attention from both men and women. There’s a certain type of women who will always give me a dirty look if I’m wearing something overtly sexy (often as their boyfriend checks me out). I’m very cautious about presenting myself that way on the street, though I’ll do it for parties.
Then, there’s trying to look overtly feminine (not my usual style) or trendy in a non-sexy way. Then, I’m treated not badly, but not respectfully either. People are friendly, but they underestimate me even more than usual.
Attention from strangers makes me uncomfortable most of the time – especially if it’s confusingly mixed. So, I often choose some shade of invisibility. When I shop, I’m careful to dress in a way that sends out clear class signals so that I’ll get good service.
Actually my favorite way to dress on the street is a sort of sophisticated version of business casual: neutral, cold colors, straight-legged, cuffed work pants, oxford shoes, a fitted top, and a 3/4 length or long coat if it’s cold or raining. Tailored clothing that fits well, high quality fabrics. (This type of look is surprisingly hard to find in my size.) Makeup? Eyeliner and clear mascara on my brows and eyelashes, and sometimes neutral lipstick.
Sometimes I’ll forget just how badly people judge me when I’m dressed very casually, go out in public by myself, and get an unpleasant shock. It’s amazing to me just how much influence my presentation has. I mean, in a suit, I can intimidate the hell out of people. In shorts and a tank, I get treated as if I’m poor and quite possibly mentally handicapped.
Sorry to be so longwinded, but it just occurred to me: I don’t get rewarded for being overtly feminine. I like to feel powerful, and I like to be respected. But, a fat lady in a dress, heels and makeup is a little bit of a wallflower, isn’t she? She may be socially acceptable, but she’s seen as flawed and… vaguely comical? An object of pity?
I’ve always been a tomboy, too, and being tomboyish still works better for me than being super feminine, even as an adult. Men can use size to their advantage, as a way to be intimidating and to seem powerful. I try to use it that way, too, as much as possible. I’ve chosen a field that’s male dominated, partly so I’ll be judged by my work rather than my appearance. I can’t use my gender or my appearance in the same way some other women can. Not that it’s a problem – I actually think it has some advantages. I don’t set off their protective instincts as often, so I have more freedom. Since I’m not easily cast into a standard feminine role, the men I work with usually treat me like a full human being. The only ones I have trouble with are the men who can’t see women as anything but mothers, daughters, or sex objects. I confuse them.
Deeleigh, no worries, you are always interesting.
…as if there weren’t social expectations in regards to men’s dressing… now make no mistake, you won’t collide with a taliban in any western country…
p.s. i’m feminist too.
walter
I stopped shaving my legs and underarms after reading Germain Greer’s “The Female Eunuch”. At first it was uncomfortable because from all the shaving the hair was stiff and scratchy. Then it grew long and silky, Ten sparser. From about 35 onward most of it was gone. You don’t want a lover who wants/needs you to look like a child. I always wore skirts. I like the freedom and I like looking at my legs. Nothing wrong with wanting to feel powerful in your own beauty as long as it is your own. And as long as you are not buying planet toxic or animal tested products for that purpose. Conscious choices are the goal.
Get into masturbation and take care of your own sexuality. The real reason most of us want to attract lovers after puberty (our 30s) is we want to be free economically and we tell ourself we need love. Pretty desperately. But we need friends and money really. So look for business partners instead of marriage partners. Goods ones are as hard to find as good lovers. But you don’t need to wear 5 inch heels to attract them.
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At 39 Ive never been too concerned with makeup, hairstyles or high heels. i like to be comfortable and dont really care what others think of what or how I choose to present myself. I like comfy shoes…I dont like to worry about makeup smearing or looking painted on…and Im a wash and go kind of hairstyle girl. Life is far too short to be worried about all that and be uncomfortable merely because of strangers expectations of me. I know I have “lost” potential friendships etc…had harsh critiques made up of me before the person or people had a chance to even know me…and been accused uncountless times that Im a dyke or lezzie and prefer women to men…just cause I prefer my jeans and tennis shoes to short skirts and eye liner…whatever. The good thing about all that pre judgement is…I get the joys of avoiding potential friendships/relationships with narrow minded judgemental stereotyping ass wipes…and thats just fine with me. The friends I have are true friends…who needs more than that? Everything and everyone else can take a flying …..?
interesting blog
“uncountless”…hmmm is that a word? Meant to say countless…if thats the correct word …lol.
I’ve had this saved in my RSS reader for almost 2 months and I’m glad I kept it, even though I’m so behind! Thanks for this post, very spot-on, especially this part:
“I’m no longer that kid doing what makes sense and what is comfortable and happy-making. I do what is “best.” I end up enjoying it because the rewards are bigger than if I don’t do it.”